I did make my own tool up as per the manual and it works great.
![1963 ford thunderbird control arm 1963 ford thunderbird control arm](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9LgAAOSwJRld9INP/s-l400.jpg)
Using the method in the manual or a pickle fork (which I have never used) will work. What you need is something to put pressure to push the taper apart and then all you need to do is give the knuckle a light tap with a hammer and this will spring the taper of the ball joint out of the socket. Whether it is the car or a part of you body, something gets broken.
![1963 ford thunderbird control arm 1963 ford thunderbird control arm](https://www.larrystbird.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/B-04144C1.jpg)
![1963 ford thunderbird control arm 1963 ford thunderbird control arm](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/njUAAOxyOM5RdPjm/s-l640.jpg)
Unfortunately there probably is not enough room under the wheel arch to do this, and if you miss, something usually gets broken. If you time it right and the swing has enough force the taper will drop out. Years ago I have had success with using two hammers and swinging them at the same time together with the knuckle of where the taper goes into between the middle of the two hammers blows. If that happens one would think that there is something wrong with the tapers. Guaranteed !! In saying that, yes I have had the luck where they fell apart. You can bash the threaded end of the where the nut goes onto and all you will do is damage something. If you undo the nuts of the ball joint and try to bash the taper out it will not happen. You will need some sort of a tool to help remove the ball joints. If you have the secret ingredient to this, please let me know. I have yet to figure out how to post these pics in larger size. The next question is do I have to remove the brake carrier plate from the spindle as indicated in instruction 3? If I disconnect from the lower ball joint, why would I have to remove the carrier plate? it's only held on my 4 nut/bolts, but it seems like it may be unnecessary.Ĭlick on each image. Is this where he (you) were using the pickle fork on the lower ball joint? I did not see this used in the most excellent post by AQTB (Tom). I have also included Figure 2 from same manual depicting this tool. While I await, here is my first question:ĭo I need to have this special tool T57P-3006-A as shown in the photo below and indicated in instruction 6 in Chapter 7, page 9 of the 1961 Shop Manual? This is to separate the lower ball joint from the control arm. I ordered 2 LCA shaft bushings, part # 3069, from my preferred vendor Project: Replace L & R Lower Control Arm Bushing Thanks ABKQ for posting that link with photos from your rebuild, since I just placed two orders for front suspension parts for my 62 last night. I might also be inclined to cut a piece of heavy bar stock or angle iron (say from an old bed frame) to use as an inside brace to keep the open side of the arm from bending when pressing in the new bushing if the fit is real tight. Your time got to be worth more than what that would cost. Might be easier to just bring it to someone who is good with a hydraulic press and have them take out the old and install the new though. I have done it that way before too and it is time-consuming, but it works. (Again making sure not to cut the arm itself). You could even remove the rubber from each side (burn it or drill around it) and then carefully use a hacksaw or air hacksaw to cut longtitudinal relief on inside of the bushing.
![1963 ford thunderbird control arm 1963 ford thunderbird control arm](https://cdn.1aauto.com/partimage/SFK/FDSFK00008/03d1ba58839845f5b15dd16f94b234cb_490.jpg)
Messy but not likely to bend it that way as long as cuts are straight. I have taken out similar bushings in late fifties Fords using press with sockets as mentioned, but if it did not go out that way I would cut an inch chunk out of the entire middle of the bushing with a 4 1/2 inch cutting wheel or metal cutting chop saw (being careful not to cut the arm itself) and that way you should be able to press out half of it at a time (again using large socket on outside and a heavy duty bolt with nut and big strong washer(s) in the space made by removing the center).